There is a 15A fuse for power to control relay for fan and fuel pump. 20A fuse to feed fuel pump relay to blue/red when on. Could be chaffed wires on fuse panel side through body panels (passenger side). I found on mine there was no grommet to isolate wires from sheet metal chase. I removed passenger seat and seat belt return assembly to see where wires ran to rear of Reeper through sheet metal panels. The wiper and flasher relays have separate control power supplies... I'm thinking chaffed wires shorting, powering relays to close and turn wipers and flashers on besides arching on body panel. I hope you find the issues.
Thanks, been having a blast. The EPS has made turning at slow speed easy with the tracks. It will sink about a foot deep in three feet of powder. Travels along with no issues, used front and rear lockers once to crawl thru a deep water bar (small one in pic 60' +/- in front of Reeper, boulder in pic is size of Reeper body). When I dropped into water bar front of tracks tip toed across bottom of ditch while my pup kissed the windshield and was laying on passenger side windshield and dash till I almost finished crawling up the other side, then the rear dropped into the water bar and she landed with four legs up in the air with back on rear of seat till we crested the other side while dragging the belly pan. After leveling out for a few feet she wanted out! Amazing that after 10 minutes of playing with her Kong toy she trusted me to get back in and have to go back thru that water bar to get home. The Reeper with tracks is 7'6" wide to outside of tracks and approximately 11'+ long track to track. If you had a plank and put it across the top of the water bar, it would not touch the rear track and the base was about 3' across. I was going real slow but gravity was not Valentine's friend! I've got to stop and take the time for pics.
joeg, sorry been out riding....and away from square box. I changed position of terminals on key switch. I removed steering column cover( two Phillips screws and gently separated both halves... plastic clips). Then used voltmeter to check switch for power in 1st position (accessory only... no fuel pump, ect.), 2nd position( fuel pump, ignition, ect.) and start. It's been awhile, but I believe Red is power in, Red/ White is accessory, Red/ Yellow is ignition and fuel pump, yellow is starter. I believe I had to move both r/w and r/y terminals, switch had one open terminal which should have had r/y (run position)and relocated r/w to position where r/y wire was. Best to confirm with switch on 1st position and testing open terminal and r/y, ( should have power on open terminal only). 2nd position testing open terminal and r/y ( should have power on open terminal and r/y). Note r/w terminal only had power on position 2 before correcting.( removed from terminal on switch and relocated to r/y position on switch). This fixed ignition switch but mp3 still didn't work because they had it tied to r/y side of ignition in fuse panel! To correct I pulled fuse panel and removed back cover, located fuse for mp3 and changed wire connection from r/y wire from ignition switch to r/w from ignition switch to power mp3. I have changed fuse panel connections since used open fuse areas and added terminals for new marine bluetooth stereo, heater fan power, extra cigarette lighter power outlets (charge cell phone, GPS, CB radio, ect.) relay power for electric power steering. I hope this helps. I'll keep checking back if you have ?'s.
I don't like the gull wing doors for the simple reason when opening the rain, snow is going to go right in the center console and side of seat. Maybe a double hinge to flip upper Lexan door panel onto aluminum roof panel? I'll be fabricating a removable aluminum roof panel to cover from windshield to back of roll bar, adding removable Lexan sides and rear Lexan tailgate for pup to ride on carpeted engine cover area in cool wx. Then figure a way to flip the Lexan upper door panel up onto roof. It might not be pretty but, It will be dry and warm!
I'm running 31x 10.50-15 Milestar Pantagonia (approx. 50# each) on 2017 Reeper Sport 1100, have 1" wheel spacers w/ stock rims. Still can start in 2nd gear w/ out slipping clutch. I have opened exhaust ends and changed intake to 2" I.D pipe with K&N cone filter. Fuel mileage went from 32 MPG to 28 mpg with tire change.
Last Edit: Feb 4, 2018 17:27:31 GMT -5 by acboomer: added pic
Well finally put some miles on with track kit... MPG at 14 with tracks. Geared way down because of drive gear size (which is the largest they offer @18 tooth). On hard terrain its like riding in a dozer with rubber tracks... a little give but constant rumble. Hit 3" or more of powder snow and it rides smooth. Have been in 18" of powder snow and floats like a boat. 4th gear in soft snow average speed 20 to 25mph. Hard trails 5th gear 30 to 35 top speed @ 4500 rpm. Will do 45 mph close to redline. Did get stuck once (delayed)... drove over 12" log 4" off ground and slid length of belly pan until rear tracks. Angle of attack was way too much, track system will not rotate enough to climb over. Had to build ramp for rear tracks to climb over. It is hard turning in tight areas without power steering, if in open area and moving along slow turns fine. Installed Super ATV EZ-Steer (Kawasaki Mule kit # PS-4-49) today. Will update with a few pics of install location and give results after running a few miles. Did a quick test run and so much easier.
View under Hood
Drivers side bracket welded to cross member and fuel tank brace, bolted in place, wiring complete, steering column to EPS box
EPS to rack view
Last Edit: Feb 4, 2018 9:44:58 GMT -5 by acboomer: added pics w/ description
junked steering rack, have inner and outer tie rod ends, rubber boots for inner tie rod ends too. also have telescopic steering shaft with u-joints and splined for stock manual steering rack. Make offer on what I have listed above, worst I can say is No.
I have stock mp3 w/bass and dash speakers along with inner tie rod boot for right and left side pulled from 2017 reeper sport. check listing in member stuff for sale. make me an offer, junked steering rack but have inner and outer tie rod ends, boots, telescopic steering shaft with u-joints. editing my post shortly.
Finally had a chance to finalize the modification and install of the Honda Pioneer Camso track kit. The 12 x 1.25mm x 180mm bolts arrived and found some 1" U-bolts to secure rear anti-rotation brackets. Installed outer lower swing arm 180mm bolt and trimmed 10 mm off and shaved lower caliper bottom mount to clear longer bolt and bracket. Drilled and installed U-bolt to secure rear of anti-rotation bracket. Re-adjusted torsion springs to correct track attack angles per Camso instructions. Installed full length Auto-Fab sleeves on Pinto steering upgrade at same time as finalizing alignment and toe adjustment.
8" snow to test drive... It is definitely geared down even with largest 18 tooth sprocket! I would say more than the 35% Camso states in brochure.
I'll get some miles on and post the results.
Last Edit: Dec 10, 2017 15:22:40 GMT -5 by acboomer: add atachments
Lugnut, The Pinto steering upgrade install was easy with all your info. Only changes needed for 2017 Reeper Sport was; don't mill the Autofab sleeves or cut inner tie rod arms because the a-arms are longer than older Reepers by 1.5", I did mount the heim joints under the housing with 1/4" spacer to compensate for angle in heim joint. I also have BOR shocks installed on this machine. I have no bump steer now. Thanks for posting great info.
1/4" spacer above heim joint
angle of tie rod and a-arms for bump steer
Last Edit: Nov 19, 2017 18:03:56 GMT -5 by acboomer: added pics
I found them on Craig's List in Maine... 538 miles later and 11 hours thru snow, sleet and freezing rain, was not a good day for traveling, but first one with cash gets the prize. The private owner used them end of last snow season and now has health issues which prevents him from enjoying traveling too far from home. The hubs on this Camso/ Camoplast unit are multi use... 110mm, 115mm (4.5"), 137mm bolt diameter, also had the largest sprocket size 18 Tooth which works on 700cc and up. I figured I could fabricate the anti rotational brackets on any unit to save some $'s Just luck of the draw these didn't need too much fabricating. Yes, the shocks are awesome...only items that don't need to be cleaned...Yet. I do have over 500 miles on them now and with the tire upgrade it is smooth as silk on pavement and dirt roads.
Found a Slightly used (less than 200 miles on snow) 2016 Camso T4S UTV Track kit for a Honda Pioneer 1000. So.... here goes the install, Installed 100mm x 4.5" x 1.25" wheel spacers/ adapters, checked anti rotation brackets and found front ones would work with slight mods ( cut and trim) by reversing the side the bracket was designed for on Honda.
Rear anti rotation brackets work on same side as original, drilled out holes to match the 12mm lower a-arm bolt on Reeper. Need longer bolt (12mmx 1.25mm x 172mm) for lower a-arm and a 1" pipe 2-hole clamp to secure rear of anti rotation brackets. will post pics when done with correct parts.
Here is the front complete and rear on temporarily to show stance and ground clearance. front 17.5", rear @ 15.5". To modify the kit from the Honda 1000 to the Reeper Sport wasn't too difficult, measure twice and cut once. Took about 2 Hours to modify brackets and 2 hours to adjust angle of attack on all tracks. Will adjust toe-in when I install tracks permanently for winter use. Well... off come the tracks and back to wheels for a few more weeks...maybe!
Last Edit: Nov 19, 2017 15:53:41 GMT -5 by acboomer: duplicate pic
complete steering rack with tie rod ends. passenger side bushing has slight play $75. plus shipping
Complete set Yit piggyback shocks with springs, Front 3.25" diameter x 21.5" long center of bolt to center of bolt, rear 3.25" x 17.5" center of bolt to center of bolt. $500. plus shipping
Pair factory headlights as shown $30. plus shipping
Bluetooth, Mp3 player w/ usb, speakers and sound tube $50. plus shipping
also have a pair of aluminum 1" x 5/8" heater hose y's $25. plus shipping paid $35 and didn't need.
Everything above pulled from machine @1281 miles, steering rack has slight play in passenger side bushing as stated above, upgraded to Pinto steering rack setup to handle Track kit. Yit shocks work fine just upgraded for a better ride. Installed LED headlights so don't need originals. Installed Pyle stereo system so don't need original. Aluminum y's are new.
Last Edit: Feb 12, 2018 12:57:45 GMT -5 by acboomer
well got some new toys to add to the Reeper Sport...
also thinking about fabricating single exhaust with quieter muffler. Previously drilled originals with 1 1/4" hole saw thru rear baffle, It made a great improvement over original restrictive elbows especially when I installed a K&N air filter. Will also relocate air filter in near future.
Last Edit: Nov 18, 2017 19:44:34 GMT -5 by acboomer: add attachment
Finished Pinto rack upgrade, 1" stop on passenger side, 7/8" stop on drivers side, also installed grease fitting in small oval cover ( spring and Teflon tensioner cover). Finalized shock adjustments after a 10 mile ride. Installed 1" wheel spacers and new 31" tires on stock rims and did full alignment. Caster set @ 0-.2 degrees both sides. toe set at 1/16". Trimmed front fender skirts 1". Measured threads holding in milled AutoFab sleeves 1/2" max. Will change to full size sleeves for extra security. Cut 4" off bumper ends for tire clearance. Still get some tire scrub on body at full compression while turning with stock 2" body lift. Ground clearance front 14.25", rear 13" with 2" sag for preload included. Went for a 100 mile ride today over a variety of terrain and it rides plush! Steering is great, tighter turning radius and no bump steer at all. A great big thanks to this forum and the people giving great advice.
Last Edit: Nov 14, 2017 20:05:11 GMT -5 by acboomer: insert attachments
Installed the heavy duty piggyback BOR shocks today... preload on front is exact. preload on rear needs a little adjustment with the extra weight I'm running. Did a quick alignment and took it for a short ride in some rough trails. WOW, what a difference. Bump steer is more noticeable with stock steering rack (play in bushing on passenger side) and suspension working correctly. Now on to installing Pinto rack (45" unit)... had the AutoFab tie rod end sleeves milled ahead of time to Lugnuts specs and set rack in place after cutting back of body mount and installed 3/8" thick rubber in factory mounts. Aluminum casting snug against drivers side mount centers rack in chassis. Tightened factory mounts and aluminum casting is pinched tight to pipe of winch frame. Steering shaft lines up better than factory. Installed AutoFab tie rod ends with joint on bottom, made 1/4" bushing to allow for angle. Did a quick alignment and running out of thread on sleeves. 2017 Reeper Sport has 1 1/2" longer a-arms than older machines! I'm glad I didn't cut ends off of rack, definitely would need longer sleeves than in tie rod end kit. Tomorrow will fab plate to frame and secure rack casting mount on drivers side, then fab mount for passenger side Pinto clamp mount. Then I'll do the string alignment to see how many threads are holding in the rod end sleeves... will probably be buying another AutoFab tie rod end kit to get the longer sleeves.
So for 2017 Reeper Sports : DO NOT CUT ROD ENDS ON 45'' PINTO STEERING RACK, DO NOT CUT AUTOFAB TIE ROD SLEEVES, WILL NEED 1/4" SPACER ON TIE ROD HEIM JOINT FOR CLEARANCE.