Finally had a chance to finalize the modification and install of the Honda Pioneer Camso track kit. The 12 x 1.25mm x 180mm bolts arrived and found some 1" U-bolts to secure rear anti-rotation brackets. Installed outer lower swing arm 180mm bolt and trimmed 10 mm off and shaved lower caliper bottom mount to clear longer bolt and bracket. Drilled and installed U-bolt to secure rear of anti-rotation bracket. Re-adjusted torsion springs to correct track attack angles per Camso instructions. Installed full length Auto-Fab sleeves on Pinto steering upgrade at same time as finalizing alignment and toe adjustment.
8" snow to test drive... It is definitely geared down even with largest 18 tooth sprocket! I would say more than the 35% Camso states in brochure.
I'll get some miles on and post the results.
Last Edit: Dec 10, 2017 15:22:40 GMT -5 by acboomer: add atachments
Lugnut, The Pinto steering upgrade install was easy with all your info. Only changes needed for 2017 Reeper Sport was; don't mill the Autofab sleeves or cut inner tie rod arms because the a-arms are longer than older Reepers by 1.5", I did mount the heim joints under the housing with 1/4" spacer to compensate for angle in heim joint. I also have BOR shocks installed on this machine. I have no bump steer now. Thanks for posting great info.
1/4" spacer above heim joint
angle of tie rod and a-arms for bump steer
Last Edit: Nov 19, 2017 18:03:56 GMT -5 by acboomer: added pics
I found them on Craig's List in Maine... 538 miles later and 11 hours thru snow, sleet and freezing rain, was not a good day for traveling, but first one with cash gets the prize. The private owner used them end of last snow season and now has health issues which prevents him from enjoying traveling too far from home. The hubs on this Camso/ Camoplast unit are multi use... 110mm, 115mm (4.5"), 137mm bolt diameter, also had the largest sprocket size 18 Tooth which works on 700cc and up. I figured I could fabricate the anti rotational brackets on any unit to save some $'s Just luck of the draw these didn't need too much fabricating. Yes, the shocks are awesome...only items that don't need to be cleaned...Yet. I do have over 500 miles on them now and with the tire upgrade it is smooth as silk on pavement and dirt roads.
Found a Slightly used (less than 200 miles on snow) 2016 Camso T4S UTV Track kit for a Honda Pioneer 1000. So.... here goes the install, Installed 100mm x 4.5" x 1.25" wheel spacers/ adapters, checked anti rotation brackets and found front ones would work with slight mods ( cut and trim) by reversing the side the bracket was designed for on Honda.
Rear anti rotation brackets work on same side as original, drilled out holes to match the 12mm lower a-arm bolt on Reeper. Need longer bolt (12mmx 1.25mm x 172mm) for lower a-arm and a 1" pipe 2-hole clamp to secure rear of anti rotation brackets. will post pics when done with correct parts.
Here is the front complete and rear on temporarily to show stance and ground clearance. front 17.5", rear @ 15.5". To modify the kit from the Honda 1000 to the Reeper Sport wasn't too difficult, measure twice and cut once. Took about 2 Hours to modify brackets and 2 hours to adjust angle of attack on all tracks. Will adjust toe-in when I install tracks permanently for winter use. Well... off come the tracks and back to wheels for a few more weeks...maybe!
Last Edit: Nov 19, 2017 15:53:41 GMT -5 by acboomer: duplicate pic
complete steering rack with tie rod ends. passenger side bushing has slight play $75. plus shipping
Complete set Yit piggyback shocks with springs $500. plus shipping
Pair factory headlights as shown $30. plus shipping
Bluetooth, Mp3 player w/ usb, speakers and sound tube $50. plus shipping
also have a pair of aluminum 1" x 5/8" heater hose y's $25. plus shipping paid $35 and didn't need.
Everything above pulled from machine @1281 miles, steering rack has slight play in passenger side bushing as stated above, upgraded to Pinto steering rack setup to handle Track kit. Yit shocks work fine just upgraded for a better ride. Installed LED headlights so don't need originals. Installed Pyle stereo system so don't need original. Aluminum y's are new.
well got some new toys to add to the Reeper Sport...
also thinking about fabricating single exhaust with quieter muffler. Previously drilled originals with 1 1/4" hole saw thru rear baffle, It made a great improvement over original restrictive elbows especially when I installed a K&N air filter. Will also relocate air filter in near future.
Last Edit: Nov 18, 2017 19:44:34 GMT -5 by acboomer: add attachment
Finished Pinto rack upgrade, 1" stop on passenger side, 7/8" stop on drivers side, also installed grease fitting in small oval cover ( spring and Teflon tensioner cover). Finalized shock adjustments after a 10 mile ride. Installed 1" wheel spacers and new 31" tires on stock rims and did full alignment. Caster set @ 0-.2 degrees both sides. toe set at 1/16". Trimmed front fender skirts 1". Measured threads holding in milled AutoFab sleeves 1/2" max. Will change to full size sleeves for extra security. Cut 4" off bumper ends for tire clearance. Still get some tire scrub on body at full compression while turning with stock 2" body lift. Ground clearance front 14.25", rear 13" with 2" sag for preload included. Went for a 100 mile ride today over a variety of terrain and it rides plush! Steering is great, tighter turning radius and no bump steer at all. A great big thanks to this forum and the people giving great advice.
Last Edit: Nov 14, 2017 20:05:11 GMT -5 by acboomer: insert attachments
Installed the heavy duty piggyback BOR shocks today... preload on front is exact. preload on rear needs a little adjustment with the extra weight I'm running. Did a quick alignment and took it for a short ride in some rough trails. WOW, what a difference. Bump steer is more noticeable with stock steering rack (play in bushing on passenger side) and suspension working correctly. Now on to installing Pinto rack (45" unit)... had the AutoFab tie rod end sleeves milled ahead of time to Lugnuts specs and set rack in place after cutting back of body mount and installed 3/8" thick rubber in factory mounts. Aluminum casting snug against drivers side mount centers rack in chassis. Tightened factory mounts and aluminum casting is pinched tight to pipe of winch frame. Steering shaft lines up better than factory. Installed AutoFab tie rod ends with joint on bottom, made 1/4" bushing to allow for angle. Did a quick alignment and running out of thread on sleeves. 2017 Reeper Sport has 1 1/2" longer a-arms than older machines! I'm glad I didn't cut ends off of rack, definitely would need longer sleeves than in tie rod end kit. Tomorrow will fab plate to frame and secure rack casting mount on drivers side, then fab mount for passenger side Pinto clamp mount. Then I'll do the string alignment to see how many threads are holding in the rod end sleeves... will probably be buying another AutoFab tie rod end kit to get the longer sleeves.
So for 2017 Reeper Sports : DO NOT CUT ROD ENDS ON 45'' PINTO STEERING RACK, DO NOT CUT AUTOFAB TIE ROD SLEEVES, WILL NEED 1/4" SPACER ON TIE ROD HEIM JOINT FOR CLEARANCE.
Taking a break and enjoying the scenery to the north. We have done 350 miles of trails and logging roads in three days ( Monday, Tuesday and Friday). Sport is getting 29 mpg on 91 octane fuel. Wanda tires don't like the 17 miles of pavement each day... wearing fast. Will have these on by November
Heater and misc parts will be installed by November too. Monday and Tuesday mornings were cool at 30 and 34 degrees but it was sunny and warmed up to mid 60's in afternoon. Longest ride was 152 miles in a day. Reeper running great!
Issue resolved... after pulling steering column cover and had no power on fuse position #1 with key on. Pulled fuse panel and back cover to find no terminals on position #1 and #2 of fuse panel, #10 wires on #3 and #4 position, well huh... cover of fuse panel mislabeled on left side fuses, fuse position #1 and #2 are spare fuses, then fuse position #3 is ignition, #4 fan, #5 ECU BDO, #6 flashers, #7 fuel pump, #8 Mian relay, #9 and #10 are for additional accessory.
TJ, there is no power on #8 headlight and #10 stop light when position #3 (#1 ign fuse is blown or out).
Ken, dealer sent pics of fuse panel and covers on two other units to me for comparison...covers are labeled the same, both of his units have 7 fuses that are not correct by cover ( which I have told him), besides the mislabeling on left side fuses.
so original problem was caused by trailer plug wiring grounded, blowing fuse position #3 and ruining flasher switch. mislabeling of fuse panel which put 10A fuse in IGN, 10A fan, 20A ECU OBD, 15A flasher.
foolish me for not studying panel wiring to confirm fuse positions on panel.
TJ, I haven't checked for power on #8 or #10 with fuse blown, I should have but assumed that there is none because whole unit shuts down, (engine, lights, radio, wipers) will check tomorrow.
Ken, Purchased new off dealer with 200 demo miles. He ran unit during the day, street mostly as advertising for his business, other new unit had 0 miles but had damage by windshield from shipping, which he is waiting on reimbursement from trucking company. Dealer talked to Oreion and they said check: lighting ground by passenger right rear tail light, trailer plug and steering column area. I had taken off trailer plug because all mine have 7 blade type connectors, not pin style so I never looked at it. brown and green wire on trailer plug was pinched and brown was definitely shorted to frame of machine, green was pinched hard but no copper showing...will attach pic. will check what green and brown are for exactly tomorrow and pull steering column cover and check that area again. No aftermarket stereo, factory unit.
Last Edit: Sept 23, 2017 3:18:27 GMT -5 by acboomer: add attach
temporarily separated all light grounds and put direct to battery, no change in fuse #3 issue. restored back to original configuration. TJ, I believe from fuse panel label they are all separate. I just don't understand why #3 blows when amperages are o.k. on stop lights and headlights circuits. ECU monitoring lighting loads (factory lighting) #3 fuse ECU BDO, #4 10a alarm lamp (hazard), #7 10a fuse width lamp(parking), #8 15a headlight, fog & reverse lights, #10 10a stop lights, #11 10a turn signals.