I'm hoping in 3 weeks or so . Last I talked to Rick at silver bullet they were balancing the motor and then start assembly.I just ordered a new echo ATV trailer yesterday that will be here in a month so hopefully it comes in and can pick up my rig with new trailer!
I put in a new air filter and new ngk plugs today. Rode about 2 hours no problems. Doesn't mean it's fixed but hopefully it is. I'll post when I get a chance to take a longer ride. Thanks guys.
Just wanted to update I still haven’t had any trouble since changing the plugs and air filter. So I’m assuming one of those was my problem. Now I need a rear differential pinion bearing and seal. If anyone knows where to get one let me know.
Check with Silver bullet. You may also want to price check with some of the other dealers listed in the dealers section
loboclone, thank you for the info. I figured it must be buried because I could not find it. I think it is bad because it is running hot. Not over heating just close to it. I think about 190. If it is idling andI rev the engine you can see the temp drop a few degrees. I don't want to pull the damn seats out though, but I don't have a choice if I want it fixed. Already for a Gates 180 degree thermostat on the way. Thank you again.
Before you tear it down tell us more about what it's doing. As the others have said it could be a air pocket or you might just need to move the sensor. Is it running hotter when you are driving at speed or does it heat up more at idle? How long does it take to heat up?
Yes, they can be a pain getting all the air out. A quick search should bring up several threads on it. Most use a pump. One member installed a bleeder. If you don't have any luck with the search I can find them for you later tonight when I have more time.
Not to add any confusion for Joeg or anyone else but Curiosity has got the best of me. You mentioned two ways to adjust the shocks. Your BOR shocks say 16 way adjustable. Just curious what the other 14 are. Sorry, just had to ask. I fought with myself but myself one.
Acboomer, I have same problem you had with position 1 of ignition not giving power to accessories. What did you do to fix it?
JG we don't allow guest to post on the forum. As forum policy your post has to be deleted. I reposted as you see so others have a chance to answer your question. We ask that you please join. As a member you receive a notice when someone replies to your post.
BOR was offering reprogrammed ones. He recently posted that he was downsizing. You might want to email him and see if he still is offering it. I believe it was reprogramming your original ECU but they may be able to fix it. I don't know but doesn't hurt to ask.
I drove it to town today and as soon as I got it up to 40 mph it started to miss and the speedometer dropped off to about 10 mph on the gauge. As soon as I slowed downn to 30 everything was fine. I thought maybe a loose alternator belt but it is fine. The gremlins are getting worse.
Quite feeding them after midnight. Still sounds like you could have a loose or bad ground
I too had this problem. Mine is a 2012 . This may sound a little strange, but this is what I did about 2 years ago and haven't had a problem since. The speedometer sensor or sending unit has 2 wires connected to it. One is the hot wire, the other is the ground. A simple test light will determine which is which. The unit is on the drivers side near the starter. I took a connector, the kind that you open up and place over a wire then squeeze shut with a pair of pliers, placed this over the ground of the speed sending unit, along with a short piece of wire to use as another ground, to ground directly to the frame, in other words I grounded the ground wire of the speed sending unit to the frame. It has ran perfect ever since. Hope it works for you if you should decide to try .
I'm curious what made you think to double ground the speed sensor. Was you having issues with the speedometer?