Post by sparkingmatt on Mar 2, 2016 19:50:57 GMT -5
Ya watched the video which is helpful but doesn't show the actual removal. I'm learning as I go on the first one and then will record a video for others on the next 2 for reference. Taking everything apart is relatively easy it's getting the actual rack out that's a bit difficult.
Post by sparkingmatt on Mar 3, 2016 0:23:16 GMT -5
What a night and day difference. For those of you who wish to save your rack and not have to switch the whole assembly out (that's the only option if a bushing is worn) take your bellows (boots/tie rod dust covers) and grease the living snot out of it all. Turn the wheel to the far left.....grease. Turn the wheel to the right and grease). Assemble back together. While replacing the rack I noticed one of my inners was beyond jacked up.
They are easily removed really, just two mounting points, but looks like you figured it out before I found this.
The point of my video was to show how mine was. Very much like that Matt. And the need to drill and add grease fitting to achieve the same thing you are saying only with out removing the boots. The more they are put on and taken of the higher the likely hood of tearing one.
The problem I see there is even if the bearing or plastic bushing is replaced the shaft is so badly pitted it will eventually wear the new bushing down. Best to remove the shaft and sand heavily working up to 2000 grit for final polishing. You may gain a small amount of play after sanding, but if done with wet/dry paper the amount lost should be of no issue.
I will say you are correct though Matt. That if not installing the zerks. Then the boots should be pretty much packed with grease.