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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 14, 2015 22:35:57 GMT -5
Have the weirdest issue which I would suspect is a wheel bearing issue, but maybe someone has had a similar issue. PS there is a video link below to see what I am referring to. Essentially I am able to wiggle the hub/rotor (front passenger side) in and out about an 1/8 to a 1/16 of an inch and when I do, whatever is in the boot moves with it. Being that I didn't have the right size socket to get the castle nut off, I have yet to be able to determine exactly what's in the boot. But it feels like a loose bolt when pulling in and out. May be easiest to see in the video. Anyone have any ideas? www.dropbox.com/s/njejzq38r6gd3zk/Video%20Nov%2014%2C%205%2006%2033%20PM.mov?dl=0 |
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 15, 2015 0:18:25 GMT -5
By the way, we disconnect the lockers to prevent renters from engaging them, so short of reconnecting them...is there an easier way to keep the front wheel from turning while I try to get the end nut(axle nut) off? On a car I could jam a screw driver in between the rotor slots and the caliper, here that won't work as it's just a single wall rotor.
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Post by The Fool on Nov 15, 2015 3:48:03 GMT -5
Have someone push the brake pedal. The nut should not be that tight.
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Post by The Fool on Nov 15, 2015 3:52:07 GMT -5
The boot contains a gage style CV joint.
Since the axle and boot seem to move equally with the rotor you may be correct about it being the wheel bearing.
If the nut were not tight then the movement of the two might be different.
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 15, 2015 14:31:10 GMT -5
As usual 1200 miles and something that shouldn't go out does. How can I prevent this going forward? $60 (plus shipping to Hawaii) for one bearing plus the hassle of replacing it is enough to keep me from wanting to do this again for a while. Is this a pretty common failure?
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Post by The Fool on Nov 15, 2015 21:36:51 GMT -5
It isn't common that I know of or have heard.
It can be caused by over tightening as this can cause the bearing to overheat and burn the grease.
Possibly just a bad bearing. Hard to say from this distance. Ha. Either way it appears by the movement in the video that the bearing is the problem.
If you have an IR temp gun you can take it out at speed for a few miles then stop and quickly shoot temps on that bearing and the others to see if it is reading hotter.
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 15, 2015 23:14:19 GMT -5
I know I always tighten the wheels at 52lbs and no more so I would bet it would have been from the aftermarket wheels/tires we had on there for a while that discount tire put on. Unless you mean over tightened at the end nut?
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Post by The Fool on Nov 15, 2015 23:37:57 GMT -5
Yes. I mean the end nut. I am not sure of the given spec, but I would assume it should be quite low. This is why it is given the cotter pin.
It may have been over tightened at the factory. I am not sure if this is assembled then or at Oreion.
My general rule is if torqued to spec and if the cotter pin hole does not align loosen rather then tighten to align.
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 16, 2015 3:24:52 GMT -5
Ya, whoever put it on had it torqued wayyyy to tight. I had to get a 20" breaker bar to get it off. So whether that was in China or at Oreion somebody impacted that sucker on there good.
Do you (or anyone) happen to know if there is an aftermarket wheel bearing that would fit? Something about paying $60 for this just erks me wrong. A friend of mine just paid $30 for a set for his Chevy (and they were pressed bearings).
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Post by The Fool on Nov 16, 2015 8:20:55 GMT -5
I have yet to have them out to try and source them aftermarket. Although I may have to be doing it soon as it appears I may have a rear one going. Haven't had to to investigate yet. But yes if it took that much force to spin free that sucker was a bit to tight.
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Post by lugnut on Nov 16, 2015 17:10:59 GMT -5
If you get that number I can get a price on ceramic bearings that will far outlive the regular ones from Oreion parts dept., SKS, or Timkin. You can order direct from my supplier.
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 16, 2015 23:07:50 GMT -5
Apparently they are pressed on bearing so going to have to take it to the machine shop first then will send them over. Ceramic sounds much better!!! Thanks lugnut |
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bejay
Senior Member
Posts: 42
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Post by bejay on Nov 18, 2015 12:37:49 GMT -5
I just had to replace the wheel bearing due to a stud stripped, that wasn't tightened properly from dealer setup. Dirt behind the nut.
No way to get hub off other than removing spindle assembly then driving out the hub. That process usually makes the bearing come apart causing you to replace the bearing.
PART #DAC2561840 or 212A1224
Searching local locations to get vs from Oreion.
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 19, 2015 20:37:26 GMT -5
Ya I'm waiting on the bearings to arrive some time later today. Then I am having to run up to a local machine shop to get the old one off and new one on. Oreion gave me a ton of reasons it could have been bad but most were do to poor PDI. For those that run into this in the future you have to take the knuckle off and then I just took the whole freaking knuckle to the machine shop and they charged me like $30 to get it done. All in all not bad (other than the cost of shipping plus the bearing).
Also just FYI the right torque on the end nut is 120lbs. Minimum is 78 and Max is 180. Just so you don't end up over tightening.
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Post by TJ on Nov 20, 2015 13:23:11 GMT -5
Could someone please note the proper procedure for torquing the bearings? I only mention it so everyone is on the same page with that since we are starting to have more people having to change them
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 21, 2015 1:03:35 GMT -5
Took my to the machine shop so unfortunately I can't help you there. You're referring to the wheel bearings just to be clear?
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 21, 2015 1:16:14 GMT -5
bejay did you find a replacement by chance from any auto part stores? I checked all around the web and parts stores and couldn't find anything. I'm sure there is a replacement but by the model numbers their systems didn't find a match.
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Post by The Fool on Nov 21, 2015 9:16:45 GMT -5
Two things here don't seem right.
First being bad PDI. The dealer gets them with wheels on and drivable. I don't see why they would tear them back down to check the torque. This should be a factory spec.
Second the torque spec seems why to high to me. I wouldn't torque more the 40 lbs. Thise numbers would snap wheel studs. Seems as though that much would be crushing the bearing. Again that is why they are pinned.
Generally not tightened tight enough to hold so the pin is to stop the nut from spinning loose.
Those specs just seem wrong. I have torqued mine to about 30 to 40 lbs and have had no issues.
I will dig deeper into this.
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bejay
Senior Member
Posts: 42
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Post by bejay on Nov 21, 2015 14:32:45 GMT -5
bejay did you find a replacement by chance from any auto part stores? I checked all around the web and parts stores and couldn't find anything. I'm sure there is a replacement but by the model numbers their systems didn't find a match. So i found on Amazon at Finest Auto Parts the exact bearing based on 35x61.8x40 for $28. Ordered and paid. 4 days later a refund and notice that the part is out of stock. (MOOG OP-WB-11094 EQUIVALENT) Febest Part # DAC35620040 - 1 Year Warranty $28.95 Subtotal of Items: $28.95 Shipping & handling: $0.00 Total for this order: $28.95 So now searching again for the wheel bearing. Not avail for state side vehicles although it fits a Nissan and Suzuki, but only foreign models. |
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 21, 2015 14:43:48 GMT -5
The Fool I haven't reassembled yet to know but it does seem pretty high now that you mention it. Not sure how it could break the studs though. Just to be clear I was talking about the end nut (castle) that is against the hub? Aka the spline nut. The more I look at this and other car specs I don't think Oreions suggested 120lbs is that far off. Cars are usually in the 150's middle or low range and 180-190 in the high range.
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Post by The Fool on Nov 22, 2015 9:03:40 GMT -5
I was using that number and stud reference as a comparison to show that that kind of torque could and possibly would snap a stud if tightened that much.
And that would be 12mm studs.
If that kind of torque will break a grade 8 bolt think what it can do to that bearing.
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 22, 2015 9:11:45 GMT -5
Ohhhhhh gotcha. My bad, sorry about that.
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Post by The Fool on Nov 22, 2015 9:13:40 GMT -5
I wouldn't go more then 120 on a good quality bearing.
Many cars do not use a retainer cotter pin so they do have to be tighter. I am at the belief if it doesn't have to be that tight then it shouldn't be.
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Post by The Fool on Nov 22, 2015 9:14:37 GMT -5
Made sense to me when I typed it. Ha
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Post by sparkingmatt on Nov 22, 2015 9:15:53 GMT -5
I did 70lbs, figured better safe than sorry..... May give it a test drive and compare the other bearing temp to the new one and see whether it's better or worse to get an idea of which is more accurate.
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