I picked up the heater from Summit Racing (SUM-991102-1) along with their vent (SUM-991103-1) and defroster (SUM-991104) kits. I also picked up some UPI 1" to 5/8" aluminum y adapters and a shutoff valve on eBay. The 5/8" heater hose came from AutoZone.
I made some aluminum brackets to attach to the heater brackets. I also repurposed the "subwoofer" brackets a used them to attach to the bottom portion of the heater. The unit is bolted to the original subwoofer mount points.
The unit is mounted sideways with the ports on the passenger side. I still need to plumb it into the cooling system, but here's some pics:
I have a vent in the foot well on each side along with a single defrost vent on top. It was tricky getting it all to fit in the area under the dash where the front differential lock cable runs. I had to cut down the vents and added some protection around the hole in the fiberglass. The vents on each side had to be offset slightly, with the driver side slightly more towards the seat.
I've struggled with bleeding the cooling system. I bought a vacuum tool, completely drained the old fluid (I believe), and pulled in about 1.5 gallons of new coolant. During the process, I left vacuum on for a while to ensure there were no leaks.
Unfortunately, it still overheats and the hose is warm only about half way up the side and cold by the time it gets to the radiator, so apparently it's not flowing.
Anyone know of something else I could try? Thanks.
Some time patients is the best. Let sit and setting for 30 minute intervals. Add coolant if needed and start and run for short periods inbetween. I have found just letting some of the system bleed naturally is all that is needed.
Also I have found it is better to fill the over flow closer to the top rather then the level mark. You can also at each start when bleeding to give the hose going in to the radiator a quick squeeze of two to help burp the system further. The problem mainly is the air that becomes trapped in the water pump.
I think your right about air being trapped in the water pump. I've tried all the tips and even removed the new heater from the circuit and hand filled the radiator. Coolant isn't flowing which makes me think it's the pump.
I'm going to try lifting the rear end and sticking a funnel on the fill hose, then see if it bubble and burps while running while keeping it topped off. Once I getting things working again I'll plumb the heater back in. *fingers crossed*
After it sits for a little while continue to fill at the engine. Usually once it catches it pushes the air up and out. Also leave the caps off if possible unless it starts pushing coolant from the filler by the engine.
Raising the rear can help. It lets the air bleed a little more. The problem with these is high sides on each end and a low spot in the middle. Also the fact the rear filler is downstream of the thermo doesn't help.
I have actually found a better way for the hoses to be routed. I am working on getting the new configuration documented.
I found that reaching in and squeezing the water hose on the left side of the engine (from the rear) got the most air out. Once the radiator was getting hot again, I re-plumbed in the heater and had it prefilled with coolant.
Everything works, but it's only warm air in the cab. I may try finding a higher flow valve to replace the one I have.
Good to hear you got it. Have you driven it for some distance after getting the flow? You may still have a little air in the heater to work out before opening again. I would put a few miles on it and see if the heat improves first.
On mine I did not install a value. Then again I live in MI where it never truly gets hot for very long. On hot summer days with the fan off I have never really noticed any additional heat in the cab area. I look it as reserve radiator if the machine starts getting to hot from load or what not. Crank up the fan to add cooling capacity to the system on hot days.